DO NOT USE EXPANDABLE FOAM!
THIS WILL ONLY MAKE YOUR SCOUT RUST!
Now that that's clear lets begin.
Standard Squeak and Rattle Checks
A quick tip before starting the process: Don't try to fix everything at once, you'll get overwhelmed and you'll give up. Instead, pick a single noise, isolate it and fix or reduce it, then move on to the next one.
- Check for exhaust leaks (droning or unnecessary exhaust noise).
- Check tire wear for misaligned or unbalanced tires (vibration or low humming).
- Check for loose bolts and screws (rattles and squeaks).
- Check rear lift gate hinges. These hinges are often ripping out and allow the lift gate to shimmy back and forth creating unbearable clatter. Also, if your lower liftgate seal is worn or missing this will also allow the liftgate to shake.
- Check rear lift gate latch. Latch fork connection tubes can work loose and open up over time.
- Check seals. Everything from the windshield cowl, to the hardtop, the door, and lift gate/tail gate (wind noise whistling).
- Check door and window alignment / gaps (wind noise whistling).
- Check door and window felts and tracks (rattles and squeaks).
- Grease the spring bushings (squeaks over bumps).
- Grease all hinges and other points of rotation or movement (squeaks).
- Check body mount bushings. Your trucks bushings isolate metal on metal vibrations between the cab and the frame.
- Add, or replace if damaged, an insulated firewall pad.
- Add heavy floor mats, vinyl liner or carpet.
- Add a foil backed, tar based sound and heat insulation product. You can add small strips a few inches apart inside the doors, on the inside of the firewall, inside the quarter panels, inside hardtop and underneath any carpet or floor coverings you may have.
- Add, or replace if damaged, sound deadening on inside of the hardtop, under headliner and side panels.
- Use a ceramic bead based heat and noise reduction coating.